story and photos by Jamie Rector
Rain on a hot tin roof only adds to all the cheering and excitable noise you’ll find at a Muay Thai Boxing event at Lumpini Stadium in Bangkok, one of the top venues for Muay Thai. Excited fans spread 
throughout the stadium. Money changes hands as bets are made and people cheer before the boxers have even made their first hit.
Evidence of the ritual and spiritual connection within this sport accompanies the fighters into the ring. They often have a cord, called a Mongkol, wrapped around their head that their coaches take off while blessing them for the fight. Arm bands adorned with a small Buddha figures give them divine protection.
Each fighter also performs a custom dance called the Wai Khru. The athletes give thanks and celebrate their parents, ancestors and mentors. With their movements, they incorporate the direction of their home with the corners of the compass to honor their training camp, teachers and other influences on them.
When the fight begins, you’ll notice it is a little different than traditional boxing in the United States. Thai boxers can use just about all parts of their bodies both as weapons and as targets. Fighters can hit or kick anywhere they wish, even the more delicate parts of the anatomy.
While the contenders are steaming it up in the ring, you’ll feel like you are right in the action as the humid, hot air, gives your senses a test of their own stamina. You get to be sweaty without the injuries. The wobbly, wooden ceiling fans spin valiantly but offer little relief.
If you enjoy the boxing, there is ample opportunity to experience more of it. The sport has become much more popular in the last few decades. As a result there are now plenty of opportunities for fans to watch the action as well as for the fighters to participate in international tournaments.
At Lumpini, 500 Baht, or roughly $12.50 US, will get you a seat in the back of the arena. The middle seating area is 800 Baht or around $20. If you want to get a good close-up view you can sit ringside for approximately $35 or 1500 Baht. Other boxing arenas include Rangsit, Omnoi and the famous Rajdamnoen Stadium, near Democracy Monument.
Lumpini Stadium is located to the east of Lumpini Park on Rama IV Road, Bangkok 10500 in Sathorn. Phone: 66 2 251 4303. Fights are scheduled Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings.
The most fun option would be one of the boat ferries. You can ferry all day for 75 Baht. As the ferry meanders from port to port throughout town, you can sit back and watch the sites glide past you without all the work of toting the kids all over. Besides being able to spot the royal palace and many of the temples, you’ll get to see more of the rustic side. The neighborhoods line up along the waterfront. Though it’s a touristy event for you, it’s just another day for the Thais. You’ll see people relaxing on their porch, or hanging up clothes to dry. Children bathe and play in the water. I wouldn’t let this encourage your kids to do the sameĀ
the water doesn’t appear to be very clean. People dangle their feet over the edge of a wall or dock and toss their fishing lines out into the water below.
If you want a more organized approach, you can take a covered boat tour and as you pass by all these places, you will have a guide to help you understand what you are seeing. This tour runs 500 Baht. Quite a bit of difference, but you’ll gain the insight of your guide and protection from the sun or rain.
For a change of pace, you can take a ride on a Tuk, Tuk. It’s an experience! There’s only room for about 4 and you’ll want to make sure the kids hang on. The Tuk Tuk is similar to a golf cart in shape. It is a motorized tricycle rickshaw. The drivers tend to be pretty aggressive so everyone should hang on, but a ride in one of these unique vehicles should be part of the experience.
The sky train is Bangkok’s answer to the metro system, only this one hangs high above the city. You’ll enjoy seeing the sights from the sky train as much as the kids. Not only is it a good place to people watch, but also the views of the city are amazing. You’ll see the rooftops of vast neighborhoods during part of your trip and then you’ll move into a more business and commercial area. You can hop on and off the sky train as you check out some of your destinations along the way.
Regular trains can be a fun adventure for the kids as well. This might be good if you are planning to check out neighboring cities. The seating is spacious and can fit all the family together. The windows open and as you move out of town, you’ll see the change of landscape go from city center, out to the more rural, and then into the countryside. It’s a great way to see the variety in the land.
some warm clothing as your ride might be warm and stuffy, or they may have the air conditioning cranked up to bring icicles to your room. Keep in mind too, that there are different toilets. There’s the standard western toilet and then there are the squatters. It’s basically a hole in the ground. Not as bad as it sounds, except it can be a challenge on a moving train.
Bangkok, whose full name translates as City of Angeles, Abode of the Emerald Buddah, is the home of approximately 28,000 temples, called wats in Thai. Exploring the wats is a great way to spend some time if you’re on your own. You can wander for hours, or even days exploring and meditating in these fascinating, spiritual places.
adorned with candles and incense. Many invite you to participate. Some ask for a donation.
The Grand Palace complex is one of the most extravagant wats in Bangkok. You can take a tour of the gardens as well as inside the palace. There are many rooms and parts of the palace grounds that will share the history of the royal and religious adventures of Bangkok and Thailand.
inch high, 18 inch wide Buddha carved of green jasper, the most revered Buddha image in Thailand. It was apparently found in Chiang Rai in the early 1400’s. It was moved several times in its lifetime before landing in Bangkok in 1778. The King himself changes the Buddha’s gilded garments three times a year to mark the change in the seasons: summer, rainy and winter.
appropriately; wats are religious places and respect for their traditions is expected. No shorts or short skirts. Women should have their shoulders covered when inside temples or holy places. Bring a light shawl that will fit easily in a bag and allow you to be appropriate instantly. In most temples you are required to take your shoes off, so watch out for your holey socks.